Coastal
Hvar and the Pakleni Islands
A long, sunny island off Split with a lively harbour town, and a chain of pine-covered islets just offshore made for anchoring, swimming and paddling.
Founder, from Ruma, Serbia
Hvar is the island most people picture when they think of sailing in Croatia. It is long and narrow, stretching east from the mainland off Split, with lavender fields and vineyards on its inland slopes and one of the busiest, prettiest harbours on the Adriatic at its western tip. Hvar town is a Renaissance stage set of stone squares, a fortress on the hill and a waterfront packed with yachts every summer evening.
The real draw for anyone on the water lies just offshore. The Pakleni Islands are a chain of around twenty small, pine-covered islets facing Hvar town, cut by narrow channels and sheltered bays. This is where boats spend their days: anchored off a pebble cove, swimming in clear turquoise water, then moving on to a beach restaurant reached only by boat. Pakleni means devil's in Croatian, but the name comes from the pine resin once harvested here, not from anything sinister.
You do not need your own boat to enjoy it. Water taxis run from Hvar town harbour to the bigger islets all day in summer, and kayak rental and guided sea kayak tours are easy to find on the waterfront. Sailors on a week-long Dalmatian charter almost always stop here for at least a night, often pairing it with Vis and Brač.
The other side of Hvar is quieter. Stari Grad, on the north coast, is one of the oldest towns in Europe, and the farmland behind it, still divided by stone walls laid out by ancient Greek settlers, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Jelsa and Vrboska are calmer harbours with a slower pace.
The catch is the crowds. In July and August Hvar town is one of the party centres of the coast, and the most popular Pakleni coves fill with boats by late morning. June and September give you warm water, easier anchorages and a far more relaxed island.
When to go
June and September are best: warm sea, steady breeze, easier anchorages and fewer people. July and August are hottest, busiest and loudest, especially in Hvar town. May and October are quiet and pleasant, though the water is cooler and some beach restaurants close.
Getting there
Fast catamarans run from Split to Hvar town in about an hour, and the car ferry goes from Split to Stari Grad in around two hours. Water taxis connect Hvar town with the Pakleni Islands throughout the summer. If you are on a sailing charter from Split or Trogir, Hvar is usually the first or second stop.
Plan your visit
What it costs, how long to allow, and where to base yourself.
Free; boats and taxis extra
2 to 3 days
Hvar town or Stari Grad
Split, then 1 hr by catamaran
Trips you can book here
Guided tours run by local operators. Open a trip to see the price, what’s included and how the day runs.
Where to stay on Hvar for the Pakleni Islands: Hvar Town
Stay in Hvar Town: the water taxis to the Pakleni Islands leave from its harbour, and kayak rental and tours line the waterfront. Heritage Hotel Park Hvar is steps from the main square, Pharos Hvar Hotel adds a pool on the hill, and hostels near the harbour suit tight budgets. Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska are calmer harbours, and Hvar is a regular stop when sailing the Dalmatian islands.
Heritage Hotel Park Hvar
Hotel
Price Range:
Upscale
Steps from the main square and the Loggia, with the harbour and the Pakleni water taxis right below.
In Hvar town centre
Pharos Hvar Hotel
Hotel
Price Range:
Mid-range
Hillside hotel with an outdoor pool and gym, about 300 m from the centre. Expect steps on the walk back from town.
300 m from Hvar town centre
Hostel Villa Skansi
Hostel
Price Range:
Budget
Social hostel by Lučica beach, about 500 m from the harbour where the Pakleni water taxis leave.
500 m from the harbour
Who it's for
Best for: Sailors, kayakers and swimmers who want clear water, sheltered coves and a lively harbour town to come back to in the evening.
Skip it if: You want peace and quiet in July or August. Hvar town and the best-known coves get very busy. Vis or the Elaphiti Islands are calmer.
Nearby places
Easy to combine on the same trip.
Hvar and Pakleni Islands questions
Can I visit the Pakleni Islands without a boat?
Yes. Water taxis leave Hvar town harbour throughout the day in summer and drop you at the larger islets, where beach bars and restaurants line the coves. Kayak rental is another easy option for the closest islets.
Is Hvar only for partying?
No. Hvar town gets loud in July and August, but the rest of the island is calm. Stari Grad, Jelsa and the inland villages are quiet, and outside peak summer even Hvar town is relaxed.
Is it good for sea kayaking?
Very. The narrow channels between the Pakleni islets are sheltered, the water is clear and the distances are short. Guided tours and rentals run from Hvar town.
How much does it cost?
The islands themselves are free. You pay for the water taxi, kayak rental or boat trip, plus beach loungers and food, which are among the priciest in Croatia in peak season.
Can I anchor overnight in the Pakleni?
Yes, there are sheltered bays and a marina on the islands, popular with charter boats. In peak season, arrive early in the afternoon to find space, or pick up a mooring buoy where available.
How many days do I need?
Two or three days lets you see Hvar town, spend a day in the Pakleni and visit Stari Grad. On a sailing week, one or two nights is typical.
What is the Stari Grad Plain?
Farmland behind the town of Stari Grad, still divided into plots by stone walls laid out by ancient Greek settlers more than two thousand years ago. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and an easy walk or bike ride from town.
What else is nearby?
Vis is a short sail south, with Komiža and the Blue Cave on Biševo. Brač, with its famous Zlatni Rat beach at Bol, lies just to the north. Split is an hour away by catamaran.
Ready to sail Hvar?
Book a 4-hour yacht trip from Hvar town to the Pakleni Islands, with time to swim in clear coves.
