Swimming the Blue Eye of Theth, Albania

There are two Blue Eyes in Albania, and this is the one you can still swim in. The Blue Eye of Theth is a small, deep spring pool high in the Accursed Mountains, where meltwater pours out of the rock and gathers in a basin so blue it looks lit from below. Unlike the famous Blue Eye near Saranda, where swimming is now banned, here you can jump in. You just have to earn it with a hike, and be ready for the cold.

The walk starts from the valley below Theth and follows the river up through beech forest and stony meadows, past a handful of family-run cafes selling coffee, juice and simple food. It takes most people two to three hours each way at an easy pace, with a steady climb but nothing technical. The final stretch drops down to the pool, where a small waterfall feeds the basin and rock ledges make natural jumping-off points.

Then comes the swim. The water stays at around 5 to 7°C even in August, which means most people manage a single gasping plunge and a fast exit. That is part of the fun. Pair it with the Grunas waterfall and the old lock-in tower in Theth village, or make it the rest day on the Theth to Valbona hike. The season runs from June, when the snow has gone from the paths, to late September.