Sailing the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

The Bay of Kotor looks like a fjord that wandered south. It winds deep into Montenegro's coast through narrow straits and inner bays, with mountains rising straight out of the water on every side and stone towns tucked along the shore. From land it is beautiful. From a boat, with the walls closing in around you, it is something else.

The trip we recommend leaves from Kotor and packs the bay's three big sights into about three hours. It passes Perast and stops at Our Lady of the Rocks, a man-made island built up from rocks and sunken ships over centuries. It heads out to the Blue Cave on the Luštica peninsula, where sunlight turns the water a glowing blue and you can jump in for a swim. And it slips past the old submarine tunnels cut into the cliffs during the Yugoslav era.

Be clear on one thing: these are fast motorboats, not sailboats. True sailing trips on the bay are rare and mostly sold as private charters from Tivat. For most visitors, a shared boat tour is the easiest way to see the bay from the water in a single morning or afternoon. The season runs May to October, and morning departures are calmer than the breezy afternoons.